KNS precision sight posts

[Kaos]

Has anyone here used/tried the KNS precision front sight posts?

Im thinking of ordering two different sights from them:
The really thin beaded front sight, and the crosshair sight as well.

I've found mixed reviews on the net, and just wanted more opinions. My stock front sight is absolutely too thick for me....another thought was the national match thin front sight as well. Just need something thinner than what I have to make shooting with irons a little more fun.

[Hawk]

Originally Posted by Kaos

Has anyone here used/tried the KNS precision front sight posts?

Im thinking of ordering two different sights from them:
The really thin beaded front sight, and the crosshair sight as well.

I've found mixed reviews on the net, and just wanted more opinions. My stock front sight is absolutely too thick for me....another thought was the national match thin front sight as well. Just need something thinner than what I have to make shooting with irons a little more fun.

What are you trying to achieve? I think I know, if it has to do with our CMP practice last Sunday . Anyways, a thick front sight post is best for
target shooting since it's key to be able to see a sharp picture of your front sight. As you get thinner, it will be more difficult to clearly see the front sight and you will start to see ghosting. I know its a bit confusing because you think by going thin you can better place the sight on the center of target, but when it comes to iron sights for 200 yard bullseye targets you will do it a bit different, instead of putting the sight in the middle of the black you put the black in the middle of the sight. I'm over simplifying but we can sit down and talk about it in more detail.
If this has nothing to do with your issue please disregard.

[Kaos]

I guess Im easier to read than a book . Really it comes down to me needing more trigger time for the most part. I was "framing" the sight against the target on the prone slowfire at the end and had more shots on the paper that way.

I couldnt even see where the black of the target was, my post covered the whole thing up...I was shifting focus to see while I was shooting.

I think Im going to pick up a spotting scope good enough for 100 yards first and work on that, If after a hundred or two hundred rounds I still don't "get it" I'll consider a different front post.

Hopefully it won't take me that long though.

Maybe I'll try to head up to the range after work this week for an hour or two, I get out at four and work closer to the club than where I live, which is still only 20 minutes out anyway.

I definitely want to continue doing 200yd shooting though, just need to spend more than 10 minutes properly sighting in the rifle too...so if I can nab a spotting scope this week I'll give it a shot after work.

[Hawk]

Originally Posted by Kaos

I guess Im easier to read than a book . Really it comes down to me needing more trigger time for the most part. I was "framing" the sight against the target on the prone slowfire at the end and had more shots on the paper that way.

I couldnt even see where the black of the target was, my post covered the whole thing up...I was shifting focus to see while I was shooting.

I think Im going to pick up a spotting scope good enough for 100 yards first and work on that, If after a hundred or two hundred rounds I still don't "get it" I'll consider a different front post.

Hopefully it won't take me that long though.

Maybe I'll try to head up to the range after work this week for an hour or two, I get out at four and work closer to the club than where I live, which is still only 20 minutes out anyway.

I definitely want to continue doing 200yd shooting though, just need to spend more than 10 minutes properly sighting in the rifle too...so if I can nab a spotting scope this week I'll give it a shot after work.

I'm guessing by your decryption that you were using a center hold (top of sight in middle of black)? What you need to do is move to a 6 o'clock hold. In this type of hold you put the top center of your front post on the bottom center (6 o'clock position) of the black to form a "lolly pop" image.
You will be able to then see the entire black area. You will need to readjust your elevation for the 6 o'clock hold so that your hits are in the "x" when your holding at 6 o'clock. Understand? After that we need to work on your sling and building your positions. I guarantee you'll double your score after making these changes.

[danws2]

What size aperture are you using? What is your current post, is it a NM post or a standard battle post? What size? The size of your aperture can make a very large difference in the quality of your sight picture. I personally use a .038 aperture and a .072 NM post. The small aperture gives you depth of field, meaning you are able to have a good focus on your post and still see the target. Going too large on aperture will cause the target to "wash out" on bright days and too small will cause eye fatigue. You really need to tailor your choice to your vision. A good starting point for aperture is .040. Having a good focus on your front sight is critical. If your groups are round, but big that usually is a sign of not having good focus. Your sight picture... (center of mass, 6 o'clock, flat tire) are personal preference as well, try them and see what works for you. I use COM for all positions, I feel it is more consistent for me in all light conditions. Some use it only for standing and then use 6 o'clock for everything else. I would recommend COM for standing though. Another thing, don't stare too long at your sights. You really need to break your shot within a few seconds of having good sight alignment.

[Kaos]

Thanks for the advice, Im on call next week so don't have to be in to the office until around 3 in the afternoon next week.

I just ordered a 15-20 x 40 spotting scope, so Im going to work on it a bit more as well. Mind over matter, I have to stop thinking I can fix my faults with new hardware everytime I run into an issue, it just works so well in the technology world :P

[Kaos]

Originally Posted by danws2

What size aperture are you using? What is your current post, is it a NM post or a standard battle post? What size? The size of your aperture can make a very large difference in the quality of your sight picture. I personally use a .038 aperture and a .072 NM post. The small aperture gives you depth of field, meaning you are able to have a good focus on your post and still see the target. Going too large on aperture will cause the target to "wash out" on bright days and too small will cause eye fatigue. You really need to tailor your choice to your vision. A good starting point for aperture is .040. Having a good focus on your front sight is critical. If your groups are round, but big that usually is a sign of not having good focus. Your sight picture... (center of mass, 6 o'clock, flat tire) are personal preference as well, try them and see what works for you. I use COM for all positions, I feel it is more consistent for me in all light conditions. Some use it only for standing and then use 6 o'clock for everything else. I would recommend COM for standing though. Another thing, don't stare too long at your sights. You really need to break your shot within a few seconds of having good sight alignment.

I have the old A1 aperture ( i think .40 and .38) but an A2 post, if that makes any difference.

[danws2]

The A1 aperture is your main problem. While a large aperture is good for a battle sight it is not good for a target sight. Get a NM aperture on there and you will not believe the difference in your depth of field. If you could try another rifle that has the small aperture that would be a big help as well. Nothing wrong with a standard A2 post although you may want to file the edges to make them crisp.

[Hawk]

Originally Posted by danws2

The A1 aperture is your main problem. While a large aperture is good for a battle sight it is not good for a target sight. Get a NM aperture on there and you will not believe the difference in your depth of field. If you could try another rifle that has the small aperture that would be a big help as well. Nothing wrong with a standard A2 post although you may want to file the edges to make them crisp.

Kaos's AR is not a "Match" or "Service Rifle". He just finished building his first AR (an m-4gery).
The parts on it were donated or obtained inexpensively. Kaos came out to our CMP practice for the first time to try out his new rifle, we kinda had him shoot along side us for the CMP course of fire. I think he liked what we were doing and wants to make some improvements to his existing skills without going all out (right now) replacing parts. So, we plan on teaching him a few basics to get him started. Heck maybe later on his next build will be for CMP or NRA High Power.

[Kaos]

Originally Posted by danws2

The A1 aperture is your main problem. While a large aperture is good for a battle sight it is not good for a target sight. Get a NM aperture on there and you will not believe the difference in your depth of field. If you could try another rifle that has the small aperture that would be a big help as well. Nothing wrong with a standard A2 post although you may want to file the edges to make them crisp.

I think you're thinking of the A2 aperture, the A1 is two pretty small apertures, not a big + a small. They're both well under 1/8" in diameter. This is just the description on the packaging when I got it but maybe not, I'll post pics when I get home.

Hawk hit the nail on the head, my AR is rather "cheap" the only expensive/new parts were really the barrel (wilson 16") and the lower receiver. What I'm likely to do is slowly build a 20" upper for CMP use.

I personally don't really see an issue with my A1 upper receiver, so I'll likely (eventually) take my carbine upper apart, and use the A1 upper receiver as a base for the "cmp" upper or sell it for an A2. Then find a barrel that I like in 20" and slap it together. I don't really "have" to have two full rifles, but in all likelihood, will eventually. Maybe do something up with some triangle handguards for that nostalgic look.