My finished tack driver project

[arrrrgh15]

yeah something definately does not look right with that rear base. It really looks like it's angled downwards towards the barrel. I think Warner Surplus may be right.

I'm hoping torquing down the scope rings didn't damage the scope tube.

Good luck with your rifle. Shoot it like you stole it.

[loudcherokee]

I can see what you mean about the bases being mismatched. The rear base is for a flat action in the rear, when the front is correct. The rear is not concave or curved in the bottom like the front is. Maybe I should contact brownells and tell them the bases are listed incorrectly.

So, should I get another rear base, or change the rear rings to lower the rear of the scope so it is level? Will the wrong rear base hurt the rifle or scope mounts?

[Warners Surplus]

Originally Posted by loudcherokee

I can see what you mean about the bases being mismatched. The rear base is for a flat action in the rear, when the front is correct. The rear is not concave or curved in the bottom like the front is. Maybe I should contact brownells and tell them the bases are listed incorrectly.

So, should I get another rear base, or change the rear rings to lower the rear of the scope so it is level? Will the wrong rear base hurt the rifle or scope mounts?

Definately replace the rear base. you won't have enough elevation adjustment in the scope to compensate for the rear of the scope being too high. I would also check the scope over good, you may have started to bend the scope tube when you torqued the rings down.

Rich W.

[arrrrgh15]

...and you want the base to have as much surface contact with the action as possible so that everything is tight and doesn't move around. Get the one that's curved to mate with the action.

Hopefully Brownells will just send you the right rear base in exchange.

Good luck.

[Warners Surplus]

If you want the best base for the action then my opinion is get the Ken Ferrel G-Force base from brownells. That is the one I use,it has an extra screw that engages the front of the ejection port and holds rearword pressure on the base so that ANY chance of the base moving is gone. It sucks when you can't get a rifle to shoot under 1/2 groups and then find out it is because one of your bases is moveing a couple hundred thousands of an inch on recoil.


Rich W.

[loudcherokee]

Well,

I got it all fixed. I ended up going down to Gander Mountain and buying 2 new bases to ensure I was getting the right ones. Brought them home and mounted them, and now my low rings fit. Awesome.

I ended up going to the range today to break in the barrel. I have pics, but the old lady ran off with the camera. I'll try to post em up tonight. I was impressed with the accuracy once I got the scope dialed in.

LC

[stevieb92]

Good lookin rifle man!!! Can't wait to hear the boom!!!

[loudcherokee]

Here's the fixed scope bases...turns out the other rear base was for a flat top receiver like yinz said.

[loudcherokee]

The results from today...after barrel break in, I got sighted in with just three shots...these sight in targets are awesome...at 100 yards, each box is 1/4 moa, so with a scope that has 1/4 moa clicks at 100 yards, you just count the boxes and multiply by four, and you get how many clicks you need to get on zero.

168 grain remington match king BTHP

100 yards -- with a dime for comparison


Here's 200 yards, with a quarter for comparison ---


So i'm a little to the right with my scope....i think I went 1 or 2 clicks too far, and that was just exagerated the further the range....I hit the steel plate at 300 yards twice as well.

All and all, had an extremely fun day. Thanks XD45 for takin me to the range and hangin out while I did that exhaustive ass barrel break in procedure.

LC

[Warners Surplus]

Good deal, looks like you got it fixed!!

Now find some 168gr TAP FPD and you'll cut those groups to less then half of what your getting now!




Rich W.