My finished tack driver project

[roland]

Originally Posted by loudcherokee

The rings are the same height. It's the bases that are higher/lower. The rear is higher than the front, and all of the rifles i looked at when I was at Gander Mountain were the same.

When you say "same", do you mean same as yours as shown in your pics? Or same as in they are the same height? Because, they should be the same height/thickness. I assume the bases came in the same package, I guess I should dbl check your other thread.

[loudcherokee]

Originally Posted by Tomcat088

Bases aren't always level, you will sometimes see different. Either way, typically, you will not see the taller base in the rear. You will sometimes see bases that are offset, in order to get extra elevation for a particular scope. The tactical guys like to just use a 20moa base, but some hunters don't like to do this and prefer something like what you have on your rifle. Either way, the taller base being in the rear will REDUCE the amount of adjustment you can make. I wasn't actually talking about the scope bases being different heights, but the crosshairs being "canted" to one side. A kind of "do-it-yourself" way that does not require anything fancy or even bubble levels is to do this.

Set up a plumb line, something heavy hanging from a string. Then back up a ways, and shoulder your rifle properly and comfortably and look through the scope at the string. The verticle line of the reticle should be perfectly in line with the plumb line. If it is not, then the scope is mounted with a slight cant. Although this doesn't seem like a big deal, but the bullets will always hit low and right of where they "should". As distance increases, the amount that the bullets hit low and right will also increase, and with a significant cant, it can be quite alot. Sometimes you'll see the long range guys with levels mounted on their scope bases or rails, this is to make sure the rifle isn't canted. There are also some scopes that come with internal bubble levels, and systems that are currently being patent that have a light system that tells you if the scope is level or not. Anyway, just something to look at and ensure that your rifle is set up properly. It could be that that's the way Savage has their rifles set up, with the rear base taller, I'm not sure.

I think that may be the picture. I leveled the scope with a bubble level, by placing a grid on the wall, made certain that it was level. Then after I mounted the bases, I made certain that they were level by placing the bubble level across the bases and rings.Then I lined up the x and y axis of the crosshairs on the grid marks. It should be pretty damn level, I would hope, but this old ass house is tilted all to hell anyways, lol.

[loudcherokee]

Originally Posted by roland

When you say "same", do you mean same as yours as shown in your pics? Or same as in they are the same height? Because, they should be the same height/thickness. I assume the bases came in the same package, I guess I should dbl check your other thread.

They were the same as in the rear base was higher than the front base. but it didn't seem the scope was tilted like mine. The bases did not come in the same package. I got them from brownells.


http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...SAVAGE-STEVENS

It was the top set, S61 rear, S46 front. I checked, and I put them on in the right spot.

[roland]

Originally Posted by tl_3237

I would expect the rear base to be slightly higher than the front. If the scope was perfectly parallel to the rifle bore in the vertical plane the bullet trajectory would never intersect with the optical sight.

I think that's where the elev. adjustment comes in.

I'm just sayin, I havn't seen this type of setup. But I'm no guru.

But I do have a handy tip when lc sights it in. Bore sight at 100yds. Have your rifle on a decent rest and bagged, fire one shot. And while holding the rifle steady (as if in a gun vise) adjust the crosshairs to the point of impact. This is a one shot sight in. Helps to have a large piece of paper as your target. With your scope magnification you should easily see a 30 cal. hole at 100yds. Then you can easily go to 200 and 300 knowing you'll be able to hit paper.

[roland]

Originally Posted by loudcherokee

They were the same as in the rear base was higher than the front base. but it didn't seem the scope was tilted like mine. The bases did not come in the same package. I got them from brownells.


http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...SAVAGE-STEVENS

It was the top set, S61 rear, S46 front. I checked, and I put them on in the right spot.

Yeah, I checked your other thread and they appear to be the appropriate bases. I wouldn't sweat it. It's different. Well, for me it is.

[Dredly]

Awesome rifle. Good Luck!

[knight0334]

Originally Posted by tl_3237

I would expect the rear base to be slightly higher than the front. If the scope was perfectly parallel to the rifle bore in the vertical plane the bullet trajectory would never intersect with the optical sight.

lol thats taken care of with the elevation adjustment of the crosshair within the scope.

[Tomcat088]

Originally Posted by roland

But I do have a handy tip when lc sights it in. Bore sight at 100yds. Have your rifle on a decent rest and bagged, fire one shot. And while holding the rifle steady (as if in a gun vise) adjust the crosshairs to the point of impact. This is a one shot sight in. Helps to have a large piece of paper as your target. With your scope magnification you should easily see a 30 cal. hole at 100yds. Then you can easily go to 200 and 300 knowing you'll be able to hit paper.

There's a slightly better way to do this to get close to paper without firing a shot, then use the shot to get it closer. Set your rifle up in a good rest or sandbags, and then push down the bolt stop and pull the bolt completely out of the rifle. Get back a little ways from the rifle and adjust it so that while you're looking down the bore it is on target. If you're further back it makes it a little more accurate. Look through the scope and it will probably not be centered on the target. Being careful to not disturb the rifle, dial in your scope so that the crosshairs are on the bullseye and you can see the target in the bore. This is where the term "bore sighting" comes from I believe. Then you can fire your shot, see where it hits, and dial accordingly like Roland mentioned. Just something that might help you out and does work.

[Warners Surplus]

It's hard to see in your pictures but i am almost posative you have the wrong rear base on your rifle.

Savage has a round/round action and a round/flat action. the hunting rifles are mostly/round flat and the ML series is round/round

from your pictures it sure looks like you have a rear base on the rifle that was made for the round/flat action.

the bases you should have should both be #46


Rich W.

[P-11 shooter]

Originally Posted by Warners Surplus

It's hard to see in your pictures but i am almost posative you have the wrong rear base on your rifle.

Savage has a round/round action and a round/flat action. the hunting rifles are mostly/round flat and the ML series is round/round

from your pictures it sure looks like you have a rear base on the rifle that was made for the round/flat action.

the bases you should have should both be #46


Rich W.

I went back and looked and I think you're right about that. The front base clearly curves to fit the round action, and the rear base is perfectly flat as well as being a little taller.

Well, there's your problem right there.