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  #21 (permalink)  
Old November 26th, 2007
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

Very nice! can I shoot it huh, huh, can I, can I, huh huh?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old November 26th, 2007
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

Very Nice!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old November 26th, 2007
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

what internals/caliber did you go with?

and although i'm sure the weather wouldn't bother that gun much, please tell me that wasnt out in the rain all day...
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Old November 26th, 2007
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

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Originally Posted by XD45 View Post
what internals/caliber did you go with?

and although i'm sure the weather wouldn't bother that gun much, please tell me that wasnt out in the rain all day...
It was out in the rain all day.....and in the brush.

It's a Model 70 in 7mm mag that was never fired before being reamed to 7STW. Custom brake and Jewell trigger.
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Old January 14th, 2008
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

And the trigger is so smooth and very light...
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Old January 15th, 2008
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

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Originally Posted by Chazman321 View Post
And the trigger is so smooth and very light...
I want it to have my children!



(that is about the sexiest rifle I have seen and held in a long time. And you won't believe the trigger until you try it yourself, it is fantastic!
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Old September 22nd, 2008
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

So, after seeing the pictures of Lycanthrope's stock, I decided to refinish my laminate stock. It previously had just one or two coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish, and looked ok, but I really wanted to try to get a nice finish. So I sanded off the old finish, starting with 400 grit and worked my way up to 2000 grit. I got a can of Tru-Oil in aerosol form, and put on 9 coats, sanding in between with the 2000 grit sand paper. I was really using a lot of paper, and after a while, it was taking longer and longer to take each coat off. I eventually switched over to 0000 steel wool, and that did a much better job. I was starting to get buildup of finish in certain areas, and wasn't able to take it down to the wood with the 2000 grit. In some places it was hard to tell that I still had a film of finish in areas. With the steel wool, and working out in the bright sun, I was able to clean it up again prior to the 10th coat.

I was concerned about getting the ridged effect that you mentioned due to the differences in wood and glue hardness, but at this point, I was running out of motivation and going through too much sand paper. Anyway, I can see some progress in filling in the grain, and I plan to stop once I can get a smooth finish. I will post pictures when I'm done. Thanks for the info.

A couple questions:

When using the coffee filter buffing technique, is the end finish glossy, semi-glossy, or satin?

When you're applying the oil with this method, you're doing a little bit of the stock at a time. Is there any trick to blending the sections together so that the finish looks consistent?

Thanks.

Ryan
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old September 22nd, 2008
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

When you are looking for final finish, strip it down with OOOO steel wool and then a light dust off with 2000 grit paper.

Then, using just a little oil at a time....rub it in quickly with the grain. You can cover the whole stock at this point, but apply sparingly and work fast. At this point you can start buffing with the grain with coffee filters or take the short cut by wiping some Armor-All between your hands and rubbing this into the stock to harden the oil almost instantly. Then buff with the flat style coffee filters as before. Do not sand off teh Tru-oil between final coats. Just lay on 4 more coats after as many days and you should be in the ballpark.

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Old September 24th, 2008
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

that's a real nice work Lycan,I'm gonna try to follow those steps for a stock that I have to refinish...
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Old September 24th, 2008
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Default Re: Finishing your own rifle stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdibley View Post
So, after seeing the pictures of Lycanthrope's stock, I decided to refinish my laminate stock. It previously had just one or two coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish, and looked ok, but I really wanted to try to get a nice finish. So I sanded off the old finish, starting with 400 grit and worked my way up to 2000 grit. I got a can of Tru-Oil in aerosol form, and put on 9 coats, sanding in between with the 2000 grit sand paper. I was really using a lot of paper, and after a while, it was taking longer and longer to take each coat off. I eventually switched over to 0000 steel wool, and that did a much better job. I was starting to get buildup of finish in certain areas, and wasn't able to take it down to the wood with the 2000 grit. In some places it was hard to tell that I still had a film of finish in areas. With the steel wool, and working out in the bright sun, I was able to clean it up again prior to the 10th coat.

I was concerned about getting the ridged effect that you mentioned due to the differences in wood and glue hardness, but at this point, I was running out of motivation and going through too much sand paper. Anyway, I can see some progress in filling in the grain, and I plan to stop once I can get a smooth finish. I will post pictures when I'm done. Thanks for the info.

A couple questions:

When using the coffee filter buffing technique, is the end finish glossy, semi-glossy, or satin?

When you're applying the oil with this method, you're doing a little bit of the stock at a time. Is there any trick to blending the sections together so that the finish looks consistent?

Thanks.

Ryan

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I can't wait to see how it turnes out.


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