cylinder leading

[autorim]

Anybody have any good solution for removing the leading from the front portion of the revolver cylinder. It seems to be the most persistent of all.

[ar15jules]

I use RB-17 gel. I got mine from Sinclair, but they no longer carry it. Do a google search for RB-17. Good stuff.
Jules

[autorim]

Jules, Thanks for the RB 17 tip. I will try it.

[Xringshooter]

When I was shooting competition (PPC) using low velocity lead HBWC's I would use a Lewis Lead Remover first to pull the lead from the cylinders, forcing cone and barrel and then clean as usual. If there is other lead elsewhere get some dental picks, they will scrape it away easily.

[Frenchy]

What I do is very different to remove that fouling, I am sure many will read this and have a stroke or at least a heart flutter and call me nuts. Mind you I have a machinist background and will say this should not be done unless you know exactly what you are doing.

If you choose to try this, at no time exert any pressure or use mechanical devices to help your self accomplish this.

The cylinders of your revolver, where once a big old steel piece, most likely from a round stock that where machined to a specific size. The manufacturer had to drill holes in there, and then ream them to a specific size.

The lead is a much softer metal, and can be removed by hand turning a drill with the same diameter of the hold you plan on “boring”.

Beware, there are various sizes in drills and you should use the drill that most exactly fits your cylinder chambers. Using too small a drill could work against you in this.

The bore of your cylinder in say a .38 .357 is just a bit more then 3/8 and this may involve you getting more then one drill to see what one fits best. Chances are 3/8 will be pretty lose in there, you might order from a shop a V size at .377 or W at .386 what ever fits tightest but free in your cylinder. Here is a drill chart so you can see the actual size of drills http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm pending on the caliber you are doing. There also exists a reamer that is adjustable and again you should chose a size that will fit loosely in your cylinder, the reamer is actually better because you can fine tune it to fit exactly the size of the area you are cleaning.

Again, I will say DO NOT use any power drill doing this, you can do this by hand, the idea is to remove the lead, not the steel, the drill should not go through the cylinder, If you do this by hand, you will not tear into the steel as it is much too hard.

The nice part about reamers is the actual angle of the end of the reamer is actually pretty close to the angle of the cone these run around $17 to $20 http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SITYPE=1&SITEXT=adjustable+reamer&KNC-T7L391316886



Again, when doing this, you should not put any pressure on the tool, the idea is to remove the lead not the steel. If done properly, you will not wear out your gun and will effectively remove any lead fouling there. Simply pass a good brush after to finish the job.

By the way, I take no responsibility if you decide to do this and ruin your gun. This is simply a fast and efficient way to remove the excess fouling in the cylinder and should not be practiced on any other part of the gun. You might feel more comfortable using wood drills flat or round as they will definitely be of softer steel and still remove the lead.

If you do this properly and take your time, you will find that it does work very well, and saves a lot of time. I personally carry the drill in my gun case all the time and have seen people look at me very oddly at the range when they see me pull it out, but when they see the before/ after effect, they generally ask me more about it.


Ok now you can all flame me for using a very unconventional way to clean a cylinder.

[Xringshooter]

Frenchy, that is a drastic way to do it but it is possible that if the fouling was bad enough it may be the only way. I reiteratr what you said, DO THIS BY HAND ONLY, NO POWER!!! The adjustable reamer may be the better way to go because you can get the fit just right. I have used the reamer in the past on some very old revolvers that were neglected for a long time and you could soak them forever and the fouling would not come out. For the average person though, the Lewis Lead Remover should work fine.

[Frenchy]

Most people would not have this trouble in 357 if they only learnt to shoot .357 before 38, but it seems to be a regular problem that people shoot 38 then shoot off a box or half box of 357 behind it, then realize the loads dont quite fit in there any more... They so compressed the lead fouling in there with the preassure of the 357 behind the 38 that drastic measures become nessesary.

Most times a good stainless cylinder brush will do the job.. You do all know there is sucha thing as a cylinder brush right? They are a bit longer and oversized just for this.

[chalmitch]

Since I generally need to remove lead from three or more revolvers {sons and friends} I use POWER. Cut one end from a "Q-Tip" and chuck it into a drill or dremel style too. Wet the exposed tip with Hoppe's or Break Free. Insert into chamber before you energize the drill. Set up takes longer than the process.

Best regards,
chalmitch

[autorim]

Thanks for all of the good info on cylinder leading. I ordered a Lewis lead remover from Brownells. I'm also going to order some RB-17. Sounds like it will also remove blueing, but should work well on s.s. handguns.

[ziggy222]

my cylinder would lock up after a few rounds of lead slugs cause its a very tight fit.making it loose would lower the velocity.i reload so i switched to plated lead which is cheap.problem solved.