1911 Spring Job

[hzox221]

Changing springs and cutting coils can also speed up the cycle time in an 1911 and shorten the slide stroke. A stronger or weaker spring will affect the percieved recoil of the gun.

Generally I run a 16lb recoil spring with one link cut out and one shockbuff and a 19lb mainspring in a 45. You shouldn't go below 13lb without talking to a good smith about your specific gun and load(don't go back to the place that screwed you on their so called custom gun).

For 40 S&W, I run a 13lb with 2 links cut out and 2 shockbuffs and a 17lb mainspring. S&W. I like a shorter stroking gun.

For 38 Super, I run an 11lb spring with one link cut and a 17lb mainspring.

Different springs (Manufacture or spring weight) will need replaced at different round counts. I geneerally change 45 ACP at around 3000-4000 rounds. 40 and Super tend to last longer in my guns.


Spring weight comes down to personal preference more than anything else. I have friends that are running 9lb springs in 40 S&W major loads. The springs last, but they are changing shockbuffs every 800-1000 rounds.

[wboggs]

My personal preference (if I haven't been clear yet) is the springs that came with the gun; my only question here was, is it a do it yourself job which was answered withing the first few posts. It ain't broke so I ain't gunna fix it; I look it this as saving a few bucks changing my own oil...Hell even easier than that since I won't be adding racing or synthetic oil or making any decisions about what kind of oil; just what came with it works perfect so I dont want to add any potential problems.

[BUCKMARK]

Sorry dude.

Yes, you should have zero problems changing out your springs. It's rather simple. Just take your time and be careful not to scratch her up. Seems like you always add a ding or scratch when you clean or try to maintain your guns as you should. Good luck.

[Lycanthrope]

Originally Posted by hzox221

Spring weight comes down to personal preference more than anything else. I have friends that are running 9lb springs in 40 S&W major loads. The springs last, but they are changing shockbuffs every 800-1000 rounds.

Bevel the bottom of the slide where it contacts the buffs and they start to last a lot longer. Usually about twice as long. It's not so much the speed of the slide, but the sharp edge that kills them. With a 12lb spring in .40 I went 5000 rounds and the buff looked fine. Now I'm playing with aluminum.

[CoyoteJack]

Originally Posted by wboggs

I'm contemplating the replacement of the springs in my 1911's, this seems to be a job you can do yourself. Anybody out there ever do it? I just got an Ed Brown's 1911 Bench Reference and looked over the process and short of getting a couple of appropriate tools, it doesn't seem there is any fitting or anything that would mandate a gunsmith. Since keeping a 1911 in tip top operating order requires a fairly frequent replacement of those springs, doing it myself would sure be a treat to my pocketbook.

I'll refrain from personal preferences then

One thing I'll point out though is if your Kimber is based on the Series 80 Colt (meaning extra safety features) then there are a few extra springs that probably don't need replaced but will come into play changing some of the other ones.

I've been very comfortable completely disassembling older Colts and their copies for years. When I tore my new Taurus down the first time though the changes, while subtle, made me wish for a third hand at times. I strongly suggest working in a fairly clean room without deep carpet .

There are some very good disassembly write ups with pictures online. Some even include dealing with the extra parts found on those based on newer colts.

Bottom line - Take your time, it isn't really too hard, and please wear some eye protection just in case

[Lycanthrope]

The Series II Kimbers aren't quire like a Series 80 Colt. The Kimbers use a Scwartz system and it's a bit simpler. The only spring related to the Series II system is the firing pin block return spring and you never change that out unless you absolutely have to. It's under the rear sight.

[DaveM55]

Here's a trick for changing springs.

Get the largest clear plastic bag you can find and change springs inside the bag. Saves you from getting down on all fours, and doing the gunsmith crawl.

I'd still wear glasses every time you change springs, just to be safe.

[wboggs]

Well I just finished the first reason I asked about changing springs in the first place. I ordered a magwell for my Kimber Gold Match II and didn't want too pay to have it installed (unless it was a rare one that need fitting). It took me about 15 minutes to do the job. Changing springs is obviously a slam dunk.

Thanks for the info guys.

[Lycanthrope]

No problem.....and if you didn't already know.....the Kimber magwell is a stock Smith and Alexander. They mostly just drop in, but I like to bevel them a bit.

[wboggs]

Originally Posted by Lycanthrope

No problem.....and if you didn't already know.....the Kimber magwell is a stock Smith and Alexander. They mostly just drop in, but I like to bevel them a bit.

Now I'm curious, what is a "stock Smith and Alexander"?

I put the digital micrometer to both the new and original equipment parts and they were within 1/1,000 and shaped exactly the same except for the obvious well. So I figured I was good to go. Especially being a Kimber part for a Kimber gun; increased the odds of a drop in.