Thickness of steel targets

[xring]

I plan to make up plates for a falling plate tree and have been having a problem finding a thickness for the plates and possibly some poppers I'd like to make also. Is there a "standard" thickness for these steel targets.Thanks.
Bob

[unclemoak]

I don't think there is really a standard thickness, but you do want to be using the right kind of steel. Most sources that I've read from reccommend using a steel called AR500, which is an abrasion resistant steel with a Brinell hardness around 500.

The reason that you don't want to use typical plate steel is because it's too soft. After some use the steel will start to get craters in it, which causing unpredictable riccocets. If you use a much harder steel like AR500, you will not see dimples develping in the steel.

If you want to get an idea of what thickness you should be using look up some steel target manufacturers. See what they are using and it should give you a pretty good idea of what is and isn't sufficient at certain ranges and for certain calibers.

[BearTitan]

As long as you only shoot at the steel with pistol calibers, lets say .45, .40, and 9, mild steel will last a really long time.

Moak is right that, if you shoot at the steel with magnums or hot-loads, you will put craters in the steel that will cause unpredictable ricochets.

Shooting rifle at mild steel often causes holes.

27Hand is the expert on home made steel targets. He has made some really nice ones.

[brian]

1/4" a36(mild steel) will stop most pistol rounds, and hold up very well to it for quite a while.
mag rounds are a different story....44mag will ventilate 1/4"@100yrds.
rifle rounds would need atleast 3/4" minimum, and even that would get cratered pretty bad, pretty quick.

the ar plate(400-500) would be a better chioce if you're buying the stuff. it will hold up to most rds, up to and including rifles.....short of .50bmg.

[27hand]

Originally Posted by brian

1/4" a36(mild steel) will stop most pistol rounds, and hold up very well to it for quite a while.
mag rounds are a different story....44mag will ventilate 1/4"@100yrds.
rifle rounds would need atleast 3/4" minimum, and even that would get cratered pretty bad, pretty quick.

the ar plate(400-500) would be a better chioce if you're buying the stuff. it will hold up to most rds, up to and including rifles.....short of .50bmg.

I agree with Brian on the AR400/AR500.

If buying it I would opt for AR500. Torch cutting any hardened plate will soften the edges (in the heated zone).

For pistol caliber handguns and carbines, I would also use a minimum of 3/8" thick plate. Mild steel will dimple slightly with magnums (357/.44)

This is a hanging plate setup. I found some pieces of 1/2" thick plate left over and had some pieces of 3/4" pipe.

This Pic is an 8" round hit with factory .357 mags at about 20yds

This plate shows dimples from both pistol and rifle hits. It is a piece of 3/8" to 1/2" mild steel angle iron. The hits are center top--.44mag pistol. Left to right lower is 7.62X39 --150gr 30.06--.44mag--30.06 and 30-30.


Here is a .500 S&W imbedded into a 3/8" plate. I ruined 10 plates that day.

A few other ones.

The two Colt speed poppers are purchased and are AR500. They reset automatically when hit and were bought from MGM targets for just over 100 each.

I took these to the Pafoa group shoots a few times but the setup guys actually had a bunch in their range shed so there hasn't been any requests to bring them out.

These are the after shoot pics of the swing set.


You can see they got a fair amount of use. Somewhere along the line someone got carried away and shot the longer rectangular plate with some longgun,probably an AK or SKS as the bullet crater just about matches the red plate crater.

One last shot of me getting ready for a group shoot. I'm welding an 8" round onto a spring out of a dumwaiter.

Any questions, feel free.

Later,

27hand

[unclemoak]

27hand,

What's the best way to cut AR500?

I know that a torch will soften the metal. I'm guessing some type of saw would take forever. What about a waterjet? Or a shear?

[27hand]

Originally Posted by unclemoak

27hand,

What's the best way to cut AR500?

I know that a torch will soften the metal. I'm guessing some type of saw would take forever. What about a waterjet? Or a shear?

I don't think torch cutting AR 400 or 500 quickly will affect more than 1/4" to 3/8" in from the cut and am not sure how you could re-harden it. If you do it by hand, I think it will do more damage as the travel speed is quite a bit slower than by machine.

I would say waterjet but can ask in our fabshop to see if any other technology is available. Plasma cutting might be an option.

I don't see anyone having the capability to cut Armor plate in their garage short of handheld torch.

I don't know how a shear would work and you couldn't cut round or tight radius AFAIK.

Google Steel targets and a few suppliers tell you how they do theirs.

I bought from MGM but there are a bunch of suppliers and some get into pretty good detail on how they make their targets.

Sorry I can't give more info. I have primarily worked with mild steel along with a bit of stainless and aluminum using stick,mig and tig welding.

For about $150, you can get a full sized pepper popper without a base
Here's MGM link http://www.mgmtargets.com/products/poppers.shtml

27hand

[brian]

Originally Posted by unclemoak

27hand,

What's the best way to cut AR500?

I know that a torch will soften the metal. I'm guessing some type of saw would take forever. What about a waterjet? Or a shear?

saw, not even. short of something using an abrasive wheel......ar= abrasive resistant.
torch would be by far the quickest and easiest.
the heat zone would be right around the edge, and not effect the plate very much at all.
waterjet would be pretty slow, but also a non-invasive meathod.

shear, yeah i don't think so. that shit would trash most shears in a heart beat.
it's plenty hard enough to punch holes in.

[brian]

Originally Posted by 27hand

Plasma cutting might be an option.

27hand

plasma cuts it like butter.
i routinly plas parts out of 1 1/4'' 400. but there agian you still get a heat affected zone.

[27hand]

Originally Posted by brian

plasma cuts it like butter.
i routinly plas parts out of 1 1/4'' 400. but there agian you still get a heat affected zone.

Brian, can you give me a rough idea of how much of an affected area there is on 3/8 to 1/2" 400 with flame cutting?

27