Military surplus powder?

[Kaos]

Im still trying to do the best cost analysis for when I finally get the funds (gift cards from cabelas likely) to start reloading.

I've seen a few threads around the net saying that milsurp powder is cheaper to buy, but Im not sure where to start with that.

This will be for .223/5.56 to start, eventually expanding into 9mm.

What kind/type of milsurp powder would be best for each cartridge? Is it even worth it?

Thanks!

Prices im finding are like $99 for 8lbs before hazmat fees.

[wjkuleck]

Kaos,

Note that "military surplus" powder is not the standardized, consistent "canister" powder to which reloaders are accustomed. With these bulk powders, no attempt is made to standardize lot-to-lot; rather, each lot (and, they are big lots) is tested & the load adjusted until the specifications for pressure and velocity are met. When the lot changes, the powder is retested & the load adjusted.

If you purchase bulk powder, you'll have to go through the testing process yourself. Just be aware that the loads found in the various handloading manuals will not apply; start below their starting loads, then work up. You do have a chronograph, right? Hopefully you'll get the performance you seek without excessive pressure, though you may not know you've gone over the pressure limit until a case lets go .

Good luck, be careful, stay safe.

Regards,

Walt

[Kaos]

No chrono, hell...no press yet.

If it's that intensive, I might as well just grab the h335 I was looking at in 8lb quantities since there's tried and true load data out there.

[Xringshooter]

As to what Walt said, if you could get the identifiers from the powder you may be able to research the who made it and what it may equate to in commercial powder (burn rate) then you can start building loads. Remember, military and factory ammo typically does not use the same powder we can buy. In many case it is specially formulated for the ammo maker. If you find out the powder maker you may be able to find out where it fits in the pecking (burn rate) order. From there you can pick a commercial powder that is close and use that load data, starting low and working up. The Nov. 2008 Shooting Times article "Make Mine a.338" touches on this near the end of the article.

[Dave in PA]

Also, some mil surplus powders are spotty as far as availability. Prices I have seen was $99 for 8 lbs, or $125 for 8 lbs of commercial powder. I have used surplus powder, but should have bought more than one jug of the same lot, because when I went to get more, it was unavailable. If you are just starting out reloading, I would suggest sticking with commercial cannister grade powders since the basic load development has already been done and you also generally know it is fresh.

[SteveWag]

I have used surplus (not pulldown), over 150 pounds of WC852 in 30-06 and a little less in .223. The 223 loads were wc844, 4895 and wc846. I do warn others about the powder not being canister grade, but I have not seen any lot-to-lot variations. I usually buy 4 to 8 8-pound jugs of the same lot at the beginning of the season and work up loads. Except for OAL, I usually end up with the same load +/- 0.1gr. My work-up is not that good. I usually buy from Pat’s Reloading or HiTech. They waive the HazMat fee on orders of 4 jugs or more. Surplus was cheap at $60/8#, but now $100/8# is very near my wholesale price.

Steve

[daschnoz]

As Dave noted, the cost for an 8#er of mil surp powder (virgin or pull down) is so close to commercial canister, you will be better off with canister powders. When there was more of it available, you used to get better deals on pull-down powder, but that's not the case anymore.

Go for canister powders. At least you know that it is fresh and available in the future.